A lot of us arrived in Brussels in bad faith. We knew the beer would be good but we heard the hostel was bad. Several of the girls already made plans to spend the weekend elsewhere. Professor Jeffrey Tyssen introduced us to Brussels by telling us of its lost glory, state of deterioration and anarchy. If this city is so unappealing, why - if I may speak for myself - is it not?

The tour gave me answers. Prof. Tyssen’s passion for history was an inspiration. The city’s destructive tendencies have made it what it is now: an odd mish-mash of ugly, uninspired buildings and beautiful, modern architecture. Ambition (and lots of post-war reconstruction) to be the most appealing city, an admiration of Paris, as well movements in Gothic, Baroque, Art Nouveau and Art Deco architecture, contribute to the latter. The bad side is from mismanagement and poor foresight. Mannekin Pis - “much ado about nothing” - is fascinating not only for its odd touristic magnetism, but its role as a political and cultural symbol of the Belgian mentality.

Roskam Café’s barmaid had on a shirt that read “I hate Mondays.” She must have served over a dozen trappiste Westmalles - Jeffrey Tyssen’s enthusiastic recommendation. New streets to walk, ethnic groceries and a kebap house kept the evening busy. Exploring the Palace of Justice was incredible. Once the largest building in Europe, with grand columns, giant statues and central dome, it is now practically out-of-order: an unruined ruin. It felt post-apocalytpic and hauntingly beautiful. Outside of it was a memorial to Belgian victims of the world wars. These are all over the city, of a nation so deeply scarred by their consequences.

City Hall’s light show - to quote a peer who could have finished my sentence - turned the plaza into “Disneyland.”